Reptile Diet Guide: Bearded Dragons, Geckos & Snakes

Reptiles have diverse dietary needs depending on their species, age, and natural habitat. A diet that keeps one species thriving can be completely inappropriate—even harmful—for another. This guide covers feeding requirements for some of the most popular pet reptiles, helping you provide optimal nutrition whether you're keeping a bearded dragon, gecko, or snake.

Bearded Dragons: The Omnivore Standard

Bearded dragons are one of the most popular pet reptiles, partly due to their personable nature and partly because their dietary needs, while specific, are manageable. As omnivores, they require both animal protein and plant matter, with the ratio changing as they mature.

Diet Ratio by Age

Hatchlings to 3 months: 80% insects, 20% vegetables. Feed 2-3 times daily, offering as many appropriately-sized insects as they'll eat in 10-15 minutes.

Juveniles (3-12 months): 60-70% insects, 30-40% vegetables. Feed insects 1-2 times daily, with fresh vegetables available always.

Adults (12+ months): 20-30% insects, 70-80% vegetables. Feed insects 2-3 times per week, with daily fresh salads.

Foods to Avoid

Avoid iceberg lettuce (no nutritional value), spinach and beet greens (bind calcium), avocado (toxic), fireflies and wild-caught insects (potentially toxic or pesticide-contaminated), and citrus fruits (too acidic). Mealworms should be limited due to their hard chitin shells.

Leopard Geckos: The Insectivore Specialist

Leopard geckos are strict insectivores—they eat only insects and will not consume plant matter. This simplifies their diet in some ways while making feeder variety crucial for balanced nutrition.

Feeding Schedule

Juveniles (under 6 months): Feed daily. Offer 5-7 small insects per feeding, or as many as they'll eat in 15 minutes.

Sub-adults (6-12 months): Feed every other day. Offer larger insects, typically 5-6 per feeding.

Adults (12+ months): Feed 2-3 times per week. Offer 6-8 appropriately-sized insects per feeding.

Best Feeders for Leopard Geckos

• Dubia roaches: Excellent protein-to-fat ratio, easy to digest, can't climb smooth surfaces
• Crickets: Good staple, widely available, but can bite if left in enclosure
• Mealworms: Acceptable staple, store easily, but higher in fat
• Black soldier fly larvae: High calcium, no dusting required, excellent nutrition
• Hornworms: High moisture content, good for hydration, treat only (very fatty)
• Waxworms: Very high fat, use sparingly as occasional treats

Crested Geckos: The Frugivore Exception

Crested geckos have unique dietary needs among popular pet geckos—they're primarily frugivores that also consume insects. The development of commercial crested gecko diet (CGD) has revolutionized their care.

Commercial Diet (CGD)

Quality commercial crested gecko diets from brands like Pangea and Repashy can serve as a complete diet. These powdered foods are mixed with water to create a smooth paste. Offer fresh CGD every other day, replacing after 24-48 hours.

Supplementing with Insects

While not required with quality CGD, insects provide enrichment and additional protein. Offer appropriately-sized crickets or dubia roaches once or twice weekly. This is especially beneficial for breeding females and growing juveniles.

Ball Pythons: The Rodent Specialist

Ball pythons are obligate carnivores that primarily eat rodents. In captivity, most keepers feed commercially bred mice and rats. These snakes are notorious for being picky eaters, which makes understanding their feeding needs especially important.

Prey Size Guidelines

The general rule is to feed prey items that are about the same width as the widest part of the snake's body, or 10-15% of the snake's body weight. Feeding prey that's too large can cause regurgitation; too small won't provide adequate nutrition.

Frozen vs. Live Prey

Frozen-thawed (F/T) rodents are recommended over live prey for several reasons: safety (live rodents can injure snakes), convenience, and humane considerations. Thaw frozen rodents in warm water and offer at body temperature using feeding tongs.

Some ball pythons refuse frozen-thawed prey, requiring patience and various tricks to transition them. Try warming the prey item, scenting with chicken broth, or feeding in the evening when they're naturally more active.

Dealing with Picky Eaters

Ball pythons are notorious for going off food, especially during breeding season, seasonal changes, or stress. A healthy adult can safely go weeks or even months without eating. Ensure husbandry is correct, minimize handling, and offer food weekly without forcing. Consult a reptile vet if weight loss exceeds 10-15%.

Corn Snakes: The Forgiving Feeder

Corn snakes are often recommended for beginners partly because they're typically excellent feeders with few of the fussiness issues that plague ball python keepers. Their dietary needs are straightforward—appropriately-sized rodents at regular intervals.

Feeding Schedule

• Hatchlings: Pinky mice every 5-7 days
• Juveniles: Fuzzy to hopper mice every 7-10 days
• Sub-adults: Adult mice every 10-14 days
• Adults: 1-2 adult mice or small rat every 2-3 weeks

Transitioning to Rats

While corn snakes can live their entire lives on mice, larger adults may benefit from transitioning to small rats, which provide more complete nutrition in a single meal. Introduce rats gradually, starting with rat pinkies scented with mouse bedding if necessary.

Blue-Tongued Skinks: The Versatile Omnivore

Blue-tongued skinks are increasingly popular pet reptiles with omnivorous diets similar to bearded dragons but with some key differences. They're less active and prone to obesity, requiring careful portion control.

Diet Composition

Protein (40-50%): Lean meats like turkey, chicken, eggs; insects like dubia roaches, snails; dog/cat food as occasional supplement

Vegetables (40-50%): Leafy greens, squash, green beans, peas, sweet potato

Fruit (10% or less): Berries, melon, banana—use sparingly due to sugar content

General Feeding Guidelines

Water and Hydration

All reptiles need access to clean water. Most species drink from dishes, though some arboreal species (like chameleons) prefer droplets on leaves. Change water daily and clean dishes regularly to prevent bacterial growth.

Temperature and Digestion

Reptiles require appropriate temperatures to digest food properly. Always ensure your reptile can access its basking spot after eating. Never feed a reptile that's been too cold—they cannot digest food without adequate warmth, risking dangerous food rot in the digestive tract.

Record Keeping

Keep a feeding log noting what was offered, whether it was accepted, and any observations. This helps track patterns, identify problems early, and is invaluable information for veterinary visits.

Proper nutrition is one of the most important factors in reptile health and longevity. By understanding your specific species' needs and establishing consistent, appropriate feeding practices, you'll set your scaly companion up for a long, healthy life. When in doubt, consult with a reptile veterinarian—they can provide species-specific guidance and help address any feeding challenges you encounter.